LACE AND KNITTING IN LEMKO`S CLOTHING DECOR: ETHNIC LOCAL AND ART FEATURES

О. Р. Козакевич

Abstract


Local  and  art  features  of  Lemko`s region  traditional  clothing  décor  are  studied. The  attention  is  given  to  lace  and  knit  décor,
which gave the clothing components a unique and  often  was  the  artistic  accent  in  Lemko clothing complexes.  Methodology.  The  methodological  basis  of the  study  is  the  principle  of  systematic
approach  and  comprehensive  research.  The comparative-historical  and  typological methods  was  used  for  study  the  research subject. The analysis of lace and knit décor was done using the art study method.
Results.  The  main  typological  groups  and items`  types  formed  under  the  influence  of ethno-cultural  and  historical  factors  were
determined  based  on  artifacts  from  museum collections, field studios and scientific sources. The  décor  made  textile  techniques  and
technological  methods  are  outlined,  with pointed of common and distinctive features in comparison  with  folk  clothing  of  the
Carpathian  region`s  other  ethnographic groups.  Artistic  and  stylistic  characteristics  of knitting  and  lace  are  analyzed,  taking  into
account  the  interplay  of  neighbouring ethnicities cultures and border features. It  is  studied  out  that  the  lace  was  common  in
female  clothing  in  the  production  of  the headwear,  the  waist  wear  and  shirts.  Knitting items  in  male  clothing  mainly  in  the  south-
western  Lemko`s  territories  were  used.  There were  naracvytsias,  mittens,  socks,  locally  were used knitting hats “megerka” and scarves. In the creation  of  lace  and  knit  items  they  used common  techniques  and  technical  methods peculiar  to  Hutsul`s  and  Boiko`s  regions:
knitting, crocheting gloves “on the laba”, “on the board”. Instead, the embroidery methods called “English hapt” with “cut out’ was typical only for
the Lemko`s, mainly central-western, territories. Scientific novelty consists in the introduction into the scientific circulation of materials about
Lemko  folk  clothing.  The  focus  is  on  the  lace and knit décor that reveals the artistic diversity of Lemko`s region clothing art. Practical  significance.  The  study  allows expanding the knowledge of Lemko traditional clothing  and  textile  production,  in  particular, about  the  centers  of  made  some  types  of clothing  with  openwork  and  knitting.  This contributes  to  use  the  receives  information  in the further study of Lemko`s region traditional clothing.

Keywords


Lemko`s region; décor; openwork; lace; olk clothing; knitting; textile techniques; border; ethno-cultural influences; local features; tradition



DOI: https://doi.org/10.30857/2617-0272.2020.1.9

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