OPILLIA FOLK COSTUME DECOR: CREATION TECHNIQUES

Abstract

In the paper décor creation techniques of Opillia folk costume of the last third of the XIX – the first half of the XX centuries based on items from Ukrainian and foreign museums, literary, achieve and field sources are analyzed. A systematic approach to the chosen object, formal and art methods of analysis are used. It is permit the most fully to reveal the décor features created by different techniques.  The  author  selects  two  groups  of techniques  according rinciples  of  creation décor. The first one is the structural group with techniques  which  decorate  the  fabrics,  the
detail  or  item  in  the  creating  process.  The second one is the facial group with techniques which  decorate  the  finished  fabrics,  the  detail
or  item.  To  the  first  group  the  weaving,  the sprang  and  the  knit  and  the  second  one  the fabrics  print,  the  embroidery  and  the  applique are  included.  For  the  first  group  in  the  Opillia folk  costume  the  close  connection  between texture  and  décor  as  well  as  nuances  ratio  is characterized.  For  the  second  grope  the  more contrasting  comparison  of  the  base  and  the décor which is allocated by volume, texture and color  is  characterized.  Printed  and  appliqued
ornaments  were  placed  on  the  top  of  fabrics. The  embroidery  techniques  allow  create ornamental compositions on different levels: on
the  fabric  facial,  in  the  structure  of  the  fabrics and modifying the last one. Scientific novelty. Originality is in the shifting emphasis of study from the technical aspects of the  décor  creation  to  its  artistic  significant  in
the Opillia folk costume as a unite complex. Practical  significance.  This  way  allows  deeper rethink  the  creation  principles  of  the  folk
costume ensemble. It is helps to the knowledge use  in  the  modern  modeling  of  the  clothes  to add them the ethnic coloration.