Artistic enamel as a factor in form-making in the work of Ukrainian jewellery artists
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.30857/2617-0272.2026.2.2Keywords:
Byzantine and Kyivan Rus’ enamelling, technologie, traditions, experimentation, innovations, techniques, jewellery artAbstract
The diversity of artistic enamel techniques creates scope for creative experimentation among Ukrainian jewellers, the revival of Byzantine and Old Rus’ enamelling traditions, and the introduction of innovative technologies, which remains highly relevant to Ukrainian jewellery art. The purpose of the study was to analyse the main principles of jewellery design, which form the basis for technical and technological inspirations in enamelling and support the effective expression of the artistic image in the work of contemporary Ukrainian jewellery artists. The methodological basis of the study involved several scientific methods: comparative-historical, analytical-descriptive, figurative-stylistic analysis, structural-typological, the method of recording field material (interviews) in audio form, and the methods of analogy and conjecture. The study examined the specifics of the methods and principles of form creation, defined by authorial style, in particular, in the context of emphasising compositional solutions through the expressive features of artistic enamel techniques and their technological inspirations in the work of contemporary Ukrainian jewellers. The research indicated that artists apply both classical and authorial enamel techniques, combining them with gemstones and mother-of-pearl to create complex, multi-layered compositions. The analysis of the activities of the creative teams of the Dyulber Jewellery House and the Lobortas Classical Jewellery House indicated that the systematic combination of theoretical knowledge and practical experience, along with the careful development of technological charts for the production of enamel jewellery works, ensures a high quality of creative results. The combination of traditional and experimental enamel technologies shapes the development of contemporary Ukrainian jewellery, opens new creative possibilities for artists of the late 20th and early 21st centuries within the global historical and cultural context, and emphasises individual style and a high technical level in the execution of jewellery works
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