HISTORICAL METHOD IN SEARCH STRATEGIES OF UKRAINIAN FASHION HOUSES AND DOMESTIC DESIGNERS’ WORKS OF THE SECOND HALF OF XX CENTURY

Abstract

The aim of the article is to identify the peculiarities of the dynamics and figurative and stylistic displays of historical method in the search strategies of Ukrainian Fashion Houses and domestic designers’ works of the second half of XX century. The  methodological  basis  of  the article  is  formed  by  the  principles  of  the  system and  synergistic  approach,  the  method  of comparative and historical analysis, the method of cultural and historical reconstruction, the historical and  biographical  method,  the  analytical  and typological  method,  the  art  criticism  and  stylistic
analysis.  Results.  It  is  established  that  in  the  domestic clothes design of the second half of XX century the historical method has developed predominantly in the form of "historical ethno" since the late 1960s. It has been proved that the appeal to the historical theme  took  place  within  the  Kiev  clothes  design school  and  in  the  exhibition  representative costume. It was established that the main sources
of design development were the ornamentation of Trypillia,  Scythia,  Kyiv  Rus;  traditional  folk costumes, motifs of architecture, monumental and
decorative  and  applied arts, folklore, legends; the stylistics  of  the Ukrainian  Baroque,  and  the  main creative  methods  became  stylization, interpretation, association, and quoting. It is proved that the peculiarities of the evolution of historical and national orientation in the works of  Ukrainian  designers  of  the  second  half  of  XX century was the gradual intensification of ties with the  world  fashion  space,  the  expansion  of  the circle  of  historical  national  sources,  the intertextualization  of  images,  the  integration  into their  structure  of  the  motifs  of  national architecture and decorative arts, the growth of the
associativity  of  collections  and  the  diversification of methods of design creative work. On the basis of  the  stylistic  analysis  of  numerous  samples  of design  works  it  has  been  demonstrated  that  the
brightest  display  of  historical  method  in  the national  clothes  design  of  the  second  half  of  XX century became the creative work of L. Avdeyeva and G. Zabashta.  The  scientific  novelty  of  the  article  is  based  on the  theoretical  and  methodological  basis  and investigation on the empirical material of historical method  in  the  search  strategies  of  the  Ukrainian Fashion Houses and domestic designers’ works of the second half of XX century.