RESEARCH OF AUTOMATED PATTERN GRADING PROCESS FOR PRODUCTS OF DIFFERENT SIZE GROUPS IN SMALL ENTERPRISE

Abstract

Purpose. The objective is to investigate the possibility of utilizing modern software to enhance the
quality and streamline the pattern grading process for products of various size groups within the
context of a small-scale enterprise.
Methodology. The research is based on the utilization of interdisciplinary methods, including
comparative, visual-analytical, systemic-informational, and structural-functional analyses.
Results. To achieve the set goal, this work analyzed the capabilities of graphic and parametric Computer-
Aided Design (CAD) software for obtaining high-quality final patterns during the process of technical
reproduction for various size groups of garments. The usage and functional capabilities of these software
tools were explored. The advantages of utilizing parametric automated programs, exemplified by the
"Grazia" CAD system, for production design tasks were identified. An improved sequence of pattern
construction and grading was proposed, comparing it with the existing method, which results in time
and resource savings for the enterprise. The main set of tools and additional means for the grading
process were determined. Using a women's skirt as an example, the proposed process sequence was
validated, and final patterns were developed. Their quality was verified through the use of virtual
fittings on digital mannequins of appropriate sizes and confirmed during the production of test samples.
Scientific novelty. A proposed approach has been presented that generalizes and simplifies the process
of adapting existing automated pattern grading tools for products of various size groups. An algorithm
for an improved sequence of pattern construction and grading has been suggested in comparison to
the existing method, aiming to reduce the time spent on production design preparation.
Practical value. The proposed algorithm for pattern construction and grading was validated, resulting
in sets of final patterns for women's skirts in various size groups. The necessity of conducting virtual
fittings of patterns on digital mannequins for each size-height combination or size groups (small,
medium, large) was confirmed to ensure the fit quality of garments on typical or individual body shapes.
In order to harmonize the perception of the garment on the human figure and establish proportional
relationships between garment components, suggestions were made regarding the dimensions of
structural elements for women's skirts in different size groups, such as pleat depths, waistband widths,
pocket dimensions, decorative seam widths, and so on.